The culture of Cocoa:
You are all aware of Cocoa and its power in our world (some more than others, sniff sniff) More than just disco and Scarface, Cocoa represents the vastly complex indigenous culture of Bolivia, where it is revered as a sacred gift from Pachamama (the nature goddess, AKA Gaia), as well as a daily staple of life. Natives use the leaves as a casual habit, yet it is beloeved to have the affect of heightening one´s sense and awareness, as well as ending pangs of hunger and thirst. Cocoa culture is an integral part of Bolivian culture, as highlighted by Evo Morales´crusade for its legitimacy. The following is an illustrated guide to partaking in this cultural experience, as presented by Geronimo, an interesting Dutch character I´ve met here in Cordoba. Geronimo has been living in Cochabamba with his Bolivian fiancee for the last year or so. Their wedding rings were made by Jorge the artisan (refer to earlier posts)
Step One: offerings to Pachamama
Before enjoying these fruits of nature, one must remember the powers that have bestown this treasure. Three of the best leaves are held in your hand, and with a small physical showing of appreciation, they are thrown into the air, a sacrifice to Pachamama.
Step Two: begin chewing those cocoa leaves, but remember they leave out the stems. After chewing the leaves, move them to the to right part of your mouth.
Step three: Bicarbonate
Chew off a small piece of this catalytic substance. Bicarbonate triggers the active ingredient in the cocoa leaves, causing a slight numbing feeling and an elevation in one´s mood.
step four:
Go on chewing those leaves and bicarbonate. When you are done, remember that all remains of the leaves must be left on the ground. What comes from nature must return to it, not to some synthetic trash bag.
The wad...
The hermit of Costa Blanca:
Thursday morning (more like mid-day) we set out for Hippie beach, an hour or so from Cordoba. 5 Israelis, Geronimo from Holland/Bolivia, and Remy from France. Hippie Beach got its name from the tranquil atmosphere in the area, as well as the rasta-crowned, bracelet wearing populace. Costa Blanca, isn´t exactly what one would call a tourist trap. In fact, most people in Cordoba have never been there. Its a white-sand beach off the main river of the region. Yes, a river, not the ocean or sea. But given its solitude (Its hidden behind mountains and valleys) the area is truly a paradise.
One of main reasons it is so secluded, this is the only bridge to the beach...
Figuring out the way to paradise...
Given the fact that there are nearby weed-fields guarded by armed guards, one ca´n´t help but be reminded of Danny Boyle´s The Beach. Victor, the owner, drew us a nice little treasure map and we set off. So after 2 buses, an hour of hiking, scaling of a dam and swimming, we get there. There are 4-5 others already there, and we are greeted by the Hermit. That´s right, Argentina´s own Henry David Thoreau. Long haired, covered in bracelets, and with a disarming smile, he came right up and greeted us as neighbors.
El Hermito
The Hermit, formerly known as Orlando, had quite an interesting story to tell us, when he was not playing Spanish renditions of The Eagles and Clapton. Born into a wealthy family in Cordoba, Orlando was well on his way to achieving the Bourgeois dream: married, with 3 kids, and a steady banking jobs. This all ended when he was held up and robbed at gunpoint...by none other than a relative of his. The following is what we call a moment of clarity. Having his life flash before his eyes, Orlando gave the thief his money, and then proceeded to give up everything else. His job, his belongings, his middle-class life, everything. He moved into a commune and took up existing´as he called it. His entire family disowned him, including his children who haven't seen him in years. After a while, Orlando realized that communal life isn´t enough for him, and so he moved on to Solitary existence. The Hermit built his tarp & plastic home here on the beach, where he has been living since (10 years!). He exists upon others´goodwill, eating only what they bring. Many have made it a tradition to embark upon a pilgrimage to the Hermit´s home and bring offerings. The Hermit spends his time existing. I can sense your first reaction. It´s okay, quite understandable, really. But ask yourself this, are you happy? he is. GOOOOOOOOOOOAAAAAAAAALLLLLLLLLLLLL...1-0 El Hermito.
If you found this, you´re home...
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