24 hours in Cartagena

I think i may have come across the most beautiful city in the world. I leave this as a possibility only because i haven`t seen it all, yet... Nonetheless, Cartagena sits atop the pantheon of awe-inspiring sites. Founded as a major port-city by the Spanish Conquistadors in the 17th century, the city had seen rapid growth along-side increasing wealth of its European sponsor.

A slightly naighty rendition of a Jesuit brother saving the souls of Cartagena...

With piracy (or privateering for the British patriots among us) becoming a major industry, millions were spent to fortify the city, resulting in a heavy wall that surrounds the old city, as well as a string of impressive fortresses and stockades. As we all know, wealth translates to luxury, as displayed in the grandiose chruches and mansions dotting the Old City center. Yet Getsemani, which once once the slaves`quarter and is now a backpackers`haven, would be be put to shame by its advantaged counterpart. Bright colors such as Orange and Yellow dominate the facades, framing rich wooden doors and balconies which hang above the street-walkers. One could easily spend hours simply walking with head held high and eyes completely enraptured.

an urban labndscape from Getsemani

Cartagena rests on the Caribbean, and its location clearly dictates the way of life. Music of various Latin flavors can be heard throughout the Night (and day) from businesses and private homes alike. Doors are rarely closed, both to let in the cool breeze, as well as provide an easy way of communicating with the neighbors. Some even choose to place their furniture outside, leading to block-wide congragations on the street corners. Drinks are imbibed as early as noon, whether on the beach, sitting on one´s own stoop, or at a cafe´filled with suit-clad office workers.

Setting up for an evening`s Salsa event...

Within the city center

Highlights from my day, the first in Cartagena:

1) After a 5.5 month wait, suffering through a never ending cold streak...I SWAM IN THE SEA, the Caribbean, to be sure! A shjort swimming competition with one of th locals followed by making sand-flavored ice cream with a 6 year-old kid was all i could manage before a tropical rain threatened of a coming storm.

Sorry, didn`t bring my camera to the beach. This is as close as you`ll get for now...

2) Cartaghena modern art museum: some amazing pieces by various South American arists such as Peruvian Fernando de Szyszlo and Colombian Enrique Grau.

Enrique Grau`s interpretation of a Cartagena panorama...

That little pale strip on the bleeding heart is an actual band-aid, so don`t fret...

This is my little `Kanye West University` moment (Weezy puts up pics of his favorite furniture on his blog)

3) Its only 17:30...i´ll have more as the sun sets and the night progresses.

Visit Cartagena...

p.s.

They water in bag form... Much cheaper than the antiquated bottle.

Back in the Jungle

Currently updating this blog from the first internet cafe in my trip to have private booths for computers... I´m in the ´G´rated section, but oh so curious...

Given that the waters are lower these days on the route from Pucallpa to Iquitos, causing a 3 day trip to become a 7 day ordeal, I´ve opted for the Gringo-express, sitting in on a flight populated by erratic Southerners (Texans, none the less) and some Peruvian business-men. But before I get to Iquitos, quite a fantastic site, let me re-cap abit about my time in Pucallpa, or rather San Francisco, a native Shibipo community resting by the banks of lake Yarinacocha.

The way to San Francisco...

Most tourists traveling to San Francisco spend about Thirty minutes in the town, long enough to buy áuthentic, original´Shibipo crafts. Pardon the sarcasm, which i tend to have an overwhleming quantity of at times. Most residents of the community depend on such tourism for their daily bread. San Francisco is lucky enough to be easily accesible and close to Pucallpa. Other, more remote communities suffer from extreme poverty and a lack of means. The Shibipo have more or less assimilated to ´modern´ Peruvian society, yet have n means of strayting staying afloat in the market economy. This is actually a syptom of greater Peruvian society. Many people find themselves juggling various jobs or inventing new ones, such as bus-traveling salesmen, or any of a million types of small-time merchants.

The Shibipo culture is traditionally animist, believing in spirits which make up a grand energy. Though many have been converted to Catholicism, and some to the various evangelical churches, most retain some pre-Western beliefs. Some, such as my hosts, remain pure pagans. A central part of their belief system is based on the use of a vine called Ayahuasca. Containing mescaline, the vine is consumed in order to attain a visionary state. Ayahuasca is used for therapeutic purposes, such as weaning off addictions and for purification, as well as attaining judgements and prophecies. The process of making the Ayahuasca is quite arduous, involving the bashing of vines with blunt objects, and then boiling them for hours with another hallucinatory plant, eventually resulting in a thick, bark smelling brown liquid of immense strength.

The Ayahuaca vines cut u, ready to be smashed...

These two immense pots will eventually produce only a liter of prepared Ayahuasca...

The result: the brown liquid is prepared ayahuaca. Next to it are too other elixirs made to help guide and protect those who take part in the ceremony...

Where the ceremonies take place...

My experience with the plant was amazing, and am grateful to the Muiñoz family for taking me in and teaching me about their culture and history. Yes, i was given a message by the plant, but ifyou want to know the details of my session, email me. I´m working on the piece right now.

Ayahuasca-influenced art...

Iquitos: 600,000 strong, Iquitos is the largest city not accesible by road (Apparently the government is working on it) The city has become a central hub for jungle-tourism, overflowing with gringos out for an adventure. Usually a jungle excursion consists of either staying at a lodge or building your our temporary shelter, as well as hunting/fishing your own food and walking around looking for exotic flora/fauna. Pretty interesting stuff, and equally expensive as well. As i´ve already enjoyed my jungle enough in Bolivia and Ecuador, my stay in Iquiots is quite a different experience. Earlier today, i visited a butterfly farm run by an Austrian lady. In addition to the butterflys, she also shelters orphan monkeys, a jaguar, tapir and a manitee. Pedro the Jaguar is 6 years old, weighing in at 80 kilos. He arrived at the park in a small box wrapped in barbed-wire by some hunter who couldn´t find a sale. Unfortunately the story is not uncommon, its good to know that there are places like this farm. Aright, enough talk, on to pics...

Just your average 2 meter (10 feet) long cayman...

p.s.
Funny thing about Ayahuasca, which is by now quite a popular activity in commercialized Iquiots. Though used for centuries by various cultures in this area of South America, the vine has been recently patented by an American business-men. In other words, everyone who imbibes in Ayahuasca officially owes this person money. Gotta love it...